Jackets, Cardigan, Shoulders .:. and a Giveaway

Half way through February, and I am almost done with my first cardigan project: Espresso from A Fine Fleece, and having a grand time. There have been a few do overs on the sleeves, as the increases didn't add up to what the finished width should have been - almost 4" wider than the pattern stated - but with the help of some very generous people on Ravelry (in the A Fine Fleece Group and from other sources), I am finishing up the first sleeve (for the third time) and am fairly confident that the second sleeve will follow quickly. it has been an interesting process. 

Typically I get entirely and thoroughly irritated when I have to rip way back or entirely frog a piece that I am almost finished with. So irritated in fact, that I will often start another project, or go back to one that has been hanging about, rather than keep working on the source of my irritation. This time I have worked through the grrr's and kept going. A sign of maturity? Naah I think not, perhaps more a sign of wanting to wear this cardigan before it gets warm again.

Espresso

Yarn: Queensland Kathmandu Tweed DK

Colour: Blackberry

Designer: Lisa Lloyd from the book A Fine Fleece

There are quite a few sweaters I have queued from this same book, so I am hoping (but can't bring myself to type, confident) that this will truly be the year of the cardigan. Amanda has also been started, though left languishing while I finish Espresso up. 

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Another favourite book of the winter for me has been Cheryl Oberle's Knitted Jackets. In no particular order, these are the jackets I have queued up both on Ravelry (and in my mind):

The Wrapper .:. Three Sisters .:. Puzzle Me This .:. Box Top

My family and friends know me so well that even though this book did not appear on any wish list, it was gifted to me for Christmas, twice. And so, we come to the Give-Away part of this post. 

One of the things I have been thinking about as I have read through both A Fine Fleece and Knitted Jackets, and looked at the construction of the cardigans and jackets in both, is: the use of a fitted sleeve versus a drop shoulder. Since I am not a knitwear designer, I don't know the why's and wherefore's of choosing one over the other for overall construction, fit and look. I know that I have looked at several of the cardigans/jackets, and wished that the designer had chosen a fitted sleeve over the drop shoulder type, but as to knowledge of why, don't have it.

And so, here comes the give-away trade off: I would love to hear from you all about what you know about shoulder/sleeve construction and the whys of choosing one type of shoulder vs the other. What are your favourites and why, AND have you ever successfully changed a pattern that has, say a drop shoulder to a more fitted sleeve? 

I am sure there are books I can read and that EZ and other expert knitters/designers have thoroughly covered all this material, but I learn less from books, and more from what other people's experiences have been, and I love a story, so send me some sleeve stories!

I will be picking a random commenter next saturday the 21st, and sending them their very own copy of Knitted Jackets. 

And now, back to Espresso... we are having a much needed week of rain around here, I am fighting a cold, and so, it is the perfect knitting weekend. Happy Saturday!

Comments

[Cheryl]

Great comments! As author of Knitted Jackets mentioned above, I posted a lengthy "opinion" on the Knitted Jackets group on Ravelry . I agree that a modified drop works better than a straight drop. But I think it's not so much that a set in sleeve requires better math skills than a drop shoulder, it's that the set in sleeve is a "tailoring" technique and often needs to be adjusted for the individual. That's why a good fitting set in looks great and so many look like "One size fits none". Luckily for most knitwear designers, knitted fabric is forgiving.

[Tanya]

i am a stick to the pattern girl for large projects like sweaters and steer away from making major changes...maybe someday if my OCD will allow it! smile. I have completed at least 4 full seaters/cardigans and a few vests but, just followed the pattern! Goos luck, the colorway and cables look great.

[Karen S]

I love knitting raglans, but since I'm a girl with a "generous" bust size this doesn't always give me the fit I need, whereas a fitted shoulder suits me better. I have big plans to design a sweater that fits me perfectly and will probably use the fitted sleeve for that one.

[Marsha]

Most of my sweater knitting has been for the baby/toddler set, which aren't too particular about shoulder shapes. So I've usually opted for the easier drop shoulder--especially once I learned how to knit the body first, seam the sides (unless knitted in the round) and shoulders, then pick up stitches to knit the sleeves down. Easy peasy--AND the sleeves are then easily lengthened for when my three-year-old has a growth spurt!

[GailP]

It's a fashion thing, fitted or drop. Personally it makes me feel that someone thinks I can't construct a fitted shoulder, but that's in a sewing pattern. I probably can't if we are talking about knitting!

[heide]

Drop shoulders are great for outer layers where you will have the sweater over multiple other shirts. However, fitted shoulders look much neater for sweaters worn next the skin.

[Anne]

Okey doke - my 2 cents..... I much prefer a fitted shoulder. I think drop shoulders (on me) drown my smallish frame, and add a lot of extra fabric at the boobage area, where I don't need any more. I actually like raglan construction better, since you don't need to sew in the sleeves and hope they fit (a lot of times that's an issue when your stitch gauge is on, but your row gauge isn't, causing a lot of frogging to ensue). I've never bothered to rewrite a pattern to change the sleeve. I'm lazy, I guess.... I just find a different pattern. :)

[Nancy]

I think I prefer the drop shoulder because I like looser-fitting sweaters. I don't feel competent to do a drastic change to a sleeve design.

[Chris]

Oh, Espresso is lovely! Wow.

I haven't knit many sweaters (socks are another story) and they've all been raglans so far, because I have good square, perfect for raglan shoulders.

Hope you don't mind me mentioning your contest in my post tomorrow!

[Carrie K]

Whoo hoo! Year of the Cardigan! Possibly.

Espresso is gorgeous.

I like fitted sleeves best and will usually try to tweak a pattern (if possible) to make it a fitted sleeve since I look like a sack in raglans and drop sleeves.

[Marina]

Ditto what Jennifer wrote ;-) The other one that I sometimes do is the modified dropped shoulder. This takes away some of the extra material from around the armhole.

[Jennifer]

Espresso is lovely!

Drop shoulder sweaters are more suited to sweaters that fit more loosely. In general, a drop shoulder sleeve is more straightforward to knit and requires less math. A fitted shoulder gives a more polished, fitted look. I've never had the knack to figure out the math though.